The Flavor of Family:
Tasting the Wines of the Primum Familiae Vini

The Primum Familie Vini is an organization uniting 12 prestigious, multi-generational, family-owned European wine companies. Each one makes one (or more) of the world’s greatest wines. But what exactly is the purpose of this exclusive collection of some of the world’s top wine companies? In many ways, they’re still trying to figure that out.

The members of the PFV are:

Baron Philippe de Rothschild (Ch. Mouton Rothschild) – Bordeaux, France
Domaine Clarence Dillon (Ch. Haut-Brion) – Bordeaux, France
Egon Müller Scharzhof – Mosel, Germany
Familia Torres – Penedes, Spain
Famille Hugel – Alsace, France
Famille Perrin (Ch. de Beaucastel) – Rhône Valley, France
Maison Joseph Drouhin – Burgundy, France
Marchesi Antinori – Tuscany, Italy
Pol Roger – Champagne, France
Symington Family Estates – Douro and Alentejo, Portugal
Tenuta San Guido (Sassicaia) – Tuscany, Italy
Tempos Vega Sicilia – Ribera del Duero, Spain

“The group was founded in 1992 by my father, Robert Drouhin, and Miguel Torres,” says Veronique Drouhin. “They would occasionally meet up and talk, and one time they said, ‘You know, we have the same values, we share the same issues, and we have some things we can talk about more often than when we just run into each other.’ And they decided maybe it was a good idea to form a little group of friends that shared the same concerns.”

Chief among those concerns at the time, says Drouhin, was succession. “We are always asking, how do we successfully pass on the business to the next generation?”

Drouhin, who was the yearly president of the PFV organization for 2023 (she handed that role over to Charles Symington a few weeks ago), cites the statistic that while 86% of global GDP comes from family-run companies only 16% of them successfully transfer the business from one generation to the next.

Robert Drouhin and Torres quickly decided to invite Piero Antinori to join their group, and then the Rothschilds, and over the next few years the group grew to Drouhin and Torres’ target of 12, a number that seemed appropriate both for its symbolism of a full case in the wine industry, as well as reasonably manageable in terms of coordinating a consensus-driven organization.

Robert Mondavi Winery was a member until they sold to Constellation in 2004. They were replaced in 2018 by Domaine Clarence Dillon, owners of Château Haut-Brion.

“We were eleven for a very long time,” notes Veronique Drouhin. “There has to be 100 percent agreement for a new one, and our first criteria is that it has to be a nice family.”

The official qualifications for membership in PFV require the wine estate to be wholly owned and controlled by a family that has been in the business for at least three generations. There also seems to be a general understanding that new members, when considered, need to be in a different appellation than existing members. These qualifications are somewhat academic, however, as the group has no plans to expand beyond its existing twelve members.

The entire group of families meets yearly over a few days at one of its members’ estates.

“At some point, maybe six or seven years ago, we started asking ourselves what exactly is the reason this group exists,” says Drouhin. “There’s an enormous amount of history, heritage, and knowledge that all of these families have. If you combine all these elements there is a significant amount of potential.”

In service of that potential, the organization subsequently developed a management committee and a technical committee. The latter quickly became focused on the impacts of climate change and how each estate was adjusting its work in the vineyards and cellar. In periodic virtual meetings, members share their research, ideas, and recommendations with the other estates.

PFV also went on to launch The PFV Prize, a $100,000 grant given to a multi-generational, family-run organization focused on maintaining their hand-crafted traditions and skills. Thus far, the prize has been awarded to Maison Bernard, the oldest traditional luthier in Europe, and Brun de Vian Tiran, a textile manufacturer in France.

The organization also raises money for various charities through the creation and auction of special cases of wine with a bottle from each of its members.

I love the idea of supporting family artisans around the world, especially against the constant and very real threats of globalization and commodification. But I can’t help but wonder whether there is more for PFV to do for the world of wine in particular, given its resources, connections, and the singular reputations of its members.

I don’t doubt that the PFV constantly proves an invaluable support network for its members, but there are thousands of family-run domains around the world that would benefit immensely from even just a sliver of the knowledge held by these titans of fine wine, especially in the face of such existential threats as climate change, economic turmoil, and the perils of inter-generational succession.

The stated mission of the Primum Familiae Vini is “To represent excellence in the world of wine, combined with sustainability, family continuity, and innovation.” That’s all well and good, but in this day and age, is “representation” enough?

Each of the PFV members clearly acts as standard-bearer, and many have individually undertaken major efforts in the industry as a whole, such as Miguel Torres’ investment and activism in decarbonization or the Perrin family’s dedication to biodynamics. But it seems to me that Primum Familiae Vini is currently missing an opportunity to collectively be an active agent for positive change, sustainability, and community in the wine industry.

Of course, that’s easy for me to say and perhaps not quite so easy to do for any organization, let alone a consensus-driven collective of 12 of the world’s most famous wine families. One might imagine it takes a certain dogged single-mindedness to keep a family business running at all for several hundred years, let alone producing some of the finest wines on the planet. That kind of unwavering drive to survive and succeed may not lend itself so easily to collective action and community building.

It might be said that there are two types of leaders in the world. The first is performative: those who lead simply by being ahead of the pack, crossing the finish line first, and setting an example or a new standard that everyone else can live up to.

Then there are social leaders, those who can see a better future that is achievable if only the right people work together to achieve it. These leaders lead by marshaling the efforts of many—by coordinating, cooperating, and communicating, and by bringing their followers along in a journey towards a destination that represents progress. The greatest such leaders end up changing the world.

I’d be very excited to see where the PFV could lead the wine industry if it decided to do so. In the meantime, its members continue to make some truly exceptional wines that I feel very lucky to have had the chance to taste.

Tasting Notes

The wines below were tasted as part of a non-blind seated tasting and lunch sponsored by the PFV. Half of the wines were offered as part of a dedicated, seated tasting, the other half were poured with lunch. Prices, as usual, are the average price at which I can find the wine for sale online.

2015 Pol Roger “Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill” Champagne Blend, Champagne, France
Palest yellow gold in the glass with very fine bubbles, this wine smells of baked apples and sea air. In the mouth, a voluminous mousse delivers flavors of lemon pith, sourdough toast, toasted sesame seeds, and a touch of marzipan. Great persistence, acidity, depth, and minerality. 7 g/l dosage. Score: around 9.5. Cost: $349. click to buy.

1998 Pol Roger Brut Vintage Champagne Blend, Champagne, France
Light to medium gold in the glass with very fine bubbles, this wine smells of marzipan, sea air, candied citrus, raw cigarette tobacco, and a touch of butterscotch. In the mouth, a silky, smooth mousse delivers flavors of salty lemon rind, kelp, marzipan, and toasted sourdough. Mouthwatering and delicious, with just a faint sulfurous quality lingering in the finish. Fantastic acidity and brightness. Score: around 9.5. Cost: $214. click to buy.

2015 Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs, Champagne, France
Pale gold in the glass with fine bubbles, this wine smells of wet pavement, lemon pith, and sea air. In the mouth, on a robust mousse, bright and juicy lemon pith flavors mix with seawater, wet chalkboard, and a touch of buttered sourdough toast. Crisp, bright and clean. Great acidity. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $147. click to buy.

2014 Famille Hugel “Riesling Schoelhammer” Riesling, Alsace, France
Light yellow gold in the glass, this wine smells of wet chalkboard, paraffin, white peaches, and citrus oil. In the mouth, gorgeous crystalline flavors of apple, citrus pith, citrus oil, crushed stones, and amazing orange oil shimmer like light reflecting off the sea. Stunning. There’s the barest whisper of sweetness in there somewhere. Deeply profound like the chime of a prayer bowl in a cavernous stone monastery. Minutes long finish. 8.1 g acidity. 6 g/l residual sugar. Score: around 10. Cost: $147. click to buy.

1995 Famille Hugel “Pinot Gris Jubilee” Pinot Gris, Alsace, France
Light to medium yellow-gold in the glass, this wine smells of honey, candied orange peel, and aromatic herbs. In the mouth, flavors of honeysuckle candied orange peel, pears, and saffron have a bright freshness thanks to excellent acidity. Lightly sweet, with a very long finish. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $70. click to buy.

2018 Egon Muller Scharzhof “Scharzhofberger Auslese Goldkapsel” Riesling, Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Palest greenish gold in the glass, this wine smells of honeysuckle and verbena, mandarin oil, and what I can only describe as heavenly ambrosia mixed with a cool mountain stream water. In the mouth, stunning acidity, crystalline clarity, and silky texture are the skeleton upon which hangs a mind-bending body of mandarin oil, candied verbena, and a touch of butterscotch. Amazing seamlessness, crazy length, and depth. Pure like the first rays of morning sunlight. Utterly, gobsmackingly stunning. Score: around 10. Cost: $1709. click to buy.

1995 Egon Muller Scharzhof “Scharzhofberger Kabinett” Riesling, Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Light yellow-gold in the glass, this wine smells of crushed stone, lemon oil, verbena, and mandarin oil. In the mouth, a hint of savory diesel serves as a prelude to pear, peach, mandarin oil, and a crystalline liquid stone quality that is both at once weightless in the mouth and beautifully structured. Stunning and seemingly effortless. Score: between 9.5 and 10. Cost: $91. click to buy.

2018 Joseph Drouhin “Marquis de Laguiche” Montrachet Grand Cru, Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France
Palest gold in the glass, this wine smells of white flowers and lemon pith with a hint of flinty struck match and lemon oil. In the mouth, lemon oil, wet chalkboard, white flowers, and a beautiful saline quality linger for a very long time in the mouth with hints of Meyer lemon. Silky and bright. Gorgeous. Score: between 9.5 and 10. Cost: $128. click to buy.

1993 Joseph Drouhin “Clos des Mouches” Beaune Premier Cru, Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France
Light to medium ruby in the glass, this wine smells of dried herbs, raspberry, and red miso paste. In the mouth, tangy raspberry, smoked meat, dried herbs, and forest floor flavors have a bright juiciness thanks to excellent acidity, which also leaves an impression of freshness. Gauzy tannins hang in the background. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $297. click to buy.

2012 Familia Torres “Grans Muralles” Red Blend, Conca de Barberà, Tarragona, Catalunya, Spain
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black cherry and raisins, brown sugar, and cedar. In the mouth, juicy flavors of black cherry, raisins, and cocoa powder are wrapped in a hazy cloud of fine-grained tannins. Dried herbs, fresh herbs, and a hint of licorice linger in the finish. Great fresh, juicy acidity. Score: around 9. Cost: $213. click to buy.

1996 Familia Torres “Mas La Plana” Red Blend, Penedès, Catalunya, Spain
Dark ruby in the glass with coffee highlights, this wine smells of wet earth, dark fruit, herbs, and underbrush. In the mouth, the wine is quite dark and earthy, with notes of black cherry, mushroom, herbs, and river mud. Tight tannins have almost a silty texture and contribute to the impression of density. Excellent acidity. Score: around 9. Cost: $134. click to buy.

2015 Tenuta San Guido “Sassicaia” Red Blend, Bolgheri, Tuscany, Italy
Very dark ruby in the glass, this wine smells of dusty roads, red fruits, aromatic herbs, and a hint of oiled leather. In the mouth, fantastic juicy acidity and suede-like tannins wrap around a core of aromatic herbs, dusty earth, and juicy cherry and raspberry flavors. The tannins stiffen over time. Great length, fantastic acidity. A touch of green fresh herbs lingers in the finish. Score: around 9.5. Cost: $376. click to buy.

1998 Tenuta San Guido “Sassicaia” Red Blend, Bolgheri, Tuscany, Italy
Dark ruby in the glass with a faint haze of sediment, this wine smells of chopped herbs, lavender, cedar, and leather. In the mouth, the wine has a remarkable minty freshness with flavors of cherry, herbs, orange peel, and forest floor. Fantastic acidity makes for a juicy mouthful as supple tannins add texture to this lengthy expression of joy. Score: around 9.5. Cost: $450. click to buy.

2019 Marchese Antinori – Antinori Napa Valley “Proficio” Red Blend, Napa Valley, Napa, California, USA
Inky, opaque garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black cherry, tobacco leaf, and mocha. In the mouth, gorgeous powdery tannins coat the mouth and surround a core of black cherry, blackcurrant, violets, dried herbs, and licorice. Fantastic juicy acidity. Rich, but not too brawny. The tannins stiffen slightly with time. Notes of mocha and vanilla linger in the finish. Supple and delicious. Score: around 9.5. Cost: $276. click to buy.

1999 Marchese Antinori – Villa Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva, Chianti, Tuscany, Italy
Dark ruby in the glass with coffee highlights, this wine smells of earth, graphite, leather, and black cherry. In the mouth, black cherry and earth flavors are draped in fine, gauzy tannins. Notes of citrus peel, forest floor, and smoked meat linger through a long finish. There’s a stony minerality to this wine. Score: around 9. Cost: $79. click to buy.

1983 Domaine Clarence Dillon – Château La Mission Haut-Brion Bordeaux Blend, Pessac-Léognan, Graves, Bordeaux, France
Dark ruby with hints of coffee in the glass, this wine smells of earth and leather, dried herbs, and a hint of barnyard/Brettanomyces. Muscular tannins wrap around a core of dark prune, roasted figs, dried and fresh herbs. Earthy notes with black olive, cigar box, and herbs linger with a touch of tarragon in the finish. Still fresh, juicy, and quite pretty. While there is clearly some Brett here, it’s restrained enough to not get in the way of the wine. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $412. click to buy.

2000 Domaine Clarence Dillon – Château Haut-Brion Bordeaux Blend, Pessac-Léognan, Graves, Bordeaux, France
Very dark ruby in color, this wine smells of graphite, earth, herbs, dark fruits, tobacco, and a hint of barnyard. In the mouth, a seamless, supple texture made up of muscular tannins delivers flavors of earth, tobacco, graphite, cherry, and cedar. The tannins tighten noticeably on the palate as notes of sour cherry and citrus peel linger in the finish. One of the better bottles of Bordeaux I’ve had in some time. Statuesque. Score: between 9.5 and 10. Cost: $972. click to buy.

2009 Famille Perrin – Château de Beaucastel “Hommage à Jacques Perrin” Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Southern Rhône, Rhône Valley, France
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of strawberry and blueberry fruit. In the mouth, suede-like tannins wrap around a core of strawberry and cherry fruit. Fantastic dried herbs and bright juicy acidity. Hint of fresh and dried herbs in the finish. Supple tannins, juicy fantastic acidity. Very long finish of herbs and underbrush. A stunner of a wine. Score: between 9.5 and 10. Cost: $548. click to buy.

1990 Famille Perrin – Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Southern Rhône, Rhône Valley, France
Medium to dark ruby in the glass with coffee-colored highlights, this wine smells of smoked meat, forest floor, and a hint of strawberries. In the mouth, lightly muscular tannins wrap around a core of sour cherry, strawberry, and dried herbs. Incredibly bright acidity and great length. Juicy, fresh, and exceedingly delicious. Score: around 9.5. Cost: $232. click to buy.

2010 Tempos Vega Sicilia “Unico Gran Reserva” Ribera del Duero, Castilla y León, Spain
Dark ruby in the glass, this wine smells of cherry and herbs and dried flowers. In the mouth, muscular tannins wrap around a core of dark cherry and fresh green herbs. Fantastic acidity keeps things juicy as supple, muscular tannins put the squeeze on the palate. Fresh and bright, with nutty notes of licorice root, cedar, and oak in the finish. A little drying in the tannins. Score: around 9.5. Cost: $550. click to buy.

1998 Tempos Vega Sicilia “Tinto Valbuena 5” Ribera del Duero, Castilla y León, Spain
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of strawberry, cherry, and dried herbs. In the mouth, bright flavors of citrus peel, cherry, strawberry, and aromatic herbs are all wrapped in very fine-grained tannins that have an ethereal quality. Citrus peel and herbs linger in a very long finish. Great acidity. Score: around 9.5. Cost: $. click to buy.

2006 Baron Philippe de Rothschild “Château Mouton Rothschild” Bordeaux Blend, Pauillac, Médoc, Bordeaux, France
Dark ruby in the glass with garnet highlights, this wine smells of pencil shavings, bacon fat, and a hint of barnyard. In the mouth, supple tannins wrap around a core of cedar and earth, smoked meat and dried herbs, graphite, and cigar box. Great acidity, long. 87% Cabernet and 13% Merlot. Score: around 9.5. Cost: $810. click to buy.

1996 Baron Philippe de Rothschild “Château d’Armailhac” Bordeaux Blend, Pauillac, Médoc, Bordeaux, France
Dark ruby in color, this wine smells of forest floor, fresh conifer, cedar wood, tobacco, and a hint of barnyard. In the mouth, the first impression is exceedingly fresh, as green herbs mix with cherry and blackcurrant, wrapped in tight muscular tannins. A stony underbelly lingers with flavors of juniper in a long finish. Outstanding acidity. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $128. click to buy.

1997 Symington Family Estates “Graham’s Single Harvest” Port, Douro, Portugal
Medium to dark amber and coffee in the glass, this wine smells of raisins, toffee, and honey-roasted nuts with a hint of acetone. In the mouth, bright acidity delivers flavors of coffee nibs, dark honey, cafe au lait, and orange blossom water, with vanilla high tones lingering for a long while in the finish. Aged in seasoned oak casks with an eye towards limiting air exposure. Score: around 9.5. Cost: $152. click to buy.

1970 Symington Family Estates “Graham’s Bicentenary” Port, Douro, Portugal
Pale blood red in the glass, this wine smells of café au lait, nail polish remover, and honey-roasted nuts. In the mouth, the wine is almost spicy, with flavors of sticky toffee pudding, brunt orange peel, candied citrus, vanilla, and coffee nibs. Aromatic and lengthy finish. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $??. click to buy the current vintage.


All images courtesy of photographer Alexander Rubin.